Regional Art Gallery and Palatine Chapel

Tuesday February 23 was mainly cloudy, but pleasant weather for walking (hgh17C).  We set out after breakfast to the Galleria Regionale della Sicilia.  We first stopped to buy some coffee beans at a wonderful Torrefazione "Ideal Caffe Stagnitta", in operation since 1928 and a family business since that time.

Coffee roaster

Inside store                             

The fabulous four in front of coffee roaster

We walked past the beautiful Santa Anna Church.

Santa Anna 

We also passed a building with a wonderful old sign, Hotel Patria, and a wonderful old door.

We saw some bombed buildings where the facades are still intact.

The Regional Art Gallery is housed in the beautiful 15th century Palazzo Abatellis, and features works of Sicilian artists from the Middle Ages to the 18th century.  Its greatest treasure is Triunfo della Morte (Triumph of Death), an amazing fresco in which Death is represented as a demonic skeleton mounted on a wasted horse.  The vain aristocrats of Palermo are represented under Death's horse, while the poor look on from the side.  This piece just blew us all away.  It is by an unknown artist and dates back to around 1446.   The Gallery is full of other treasures, beautifully displayed in an exhibition space designed in 1957 by Carlo Scarpa, one of Italy's leading architects.

Inner Courtyard of Gallery

View from Courtyard of Outside of Gallery

Triunfo della Morte (Triumph of Death) c. 1446

The Musicians- detail

                                                         Dead Bishops with arrows- Detail

The women- detail

We have started to observe that the men and women depicted in Sicilian art often have the most amazing expressions.

Studying the fresco

After spending some time with the fresco, we went on to explore the rest of the Gallery.

Vaso- Lustre Majolica- end 13th century

 A number of the sculpted heads were displayed on coloured walls.  A very modern approach taken to presentation.

Ritratto de Gentildonna 1458-1502 -Francesco Laurana

Busto di Giovanetto- Anonimo (Secolo- XV)

Eleonora D'aragona- Francesco Laurana (1458-1502)

Ritratto di Giovinetto - Antonello Gagini (1478-1536)

Madonna col bambino- Antonello Gagini

Courtyard

Sculpture detail

One additional painting we saw was The Annunciata by Antonello da Messina (1430-79).  The artist was influenced by Flemish painting.  The detail of her hands and the beautiful mantle were remarkable.  

The Annunciata

It was then time for a late lunch.  We went to Antica Focacceria S. Francesco, a historic focacceria, which dates back to 1834.  We had passed the restaurant the evening before.  It is opposite the Chiesa di San Francesco D'Assisi

Restaurant ( evening pic)

We sat in the upper level and could see one of the servers stirring the pot of veal spleen, which is a Palermo specialty.  Needless to say, while interesting, this did not appeal to us.  Other specialties were much more appetizing.

Stirring the pot and preparing veal spleen sandwich

Panelle- chickpea fritter

Focaccia 

                                                                       David with gorgeous cannoli

                                                                      Cannoli close up

After lunch we walked to the Palatine Chapel (Cappella Palatina), passing some interesting places on the way.

Puppet maker

We walked by the Cattedrale di Palermo, which remains a prime example of Arab-Norman style, which is unique to Sicily.  It is a wonderful building from the outside, but not too special inside.  Construction began in 1184 and continued until the 13th and 14th centuries.

Cattedrale di Palermo

Gothic style- Spanish addition

We passed by the Regional Assembly building with a float parked outside.  The float is used for religious processions.

Float in front of Parliament buildings

Playing Cards

We finally reached the Palatine Chapel.  In 1130, after his coronation, Roger II ordered the construction of the Chapel of the Royal Palace, which was completed in 1140.  

Courtyard leading to Chapel

The Chapel is amazing.  Every inch is inlaid with precious stones.  The mosaics were mainly the work of Byzantine Greek artisans brought to Palermo by Roger II.  The bulk of the mosaics recount the tales of the Old Testament and the lives of Christ, St Peter and St Paul.  On the cupola and bowl of the central apse is the image of Christ Pantocrator surrounded by angels.  There is also an amazing wooden ceiling, a masterpiece of Muslim art.   The walls are decorated with handsome marble inlay, and the carved marble in the floor is breathtaking.

                                                                                    

                                                             

                                                                      Palm Sunday

Paul

                                                                   Cain and Abel

                                                                Noah and the Ark

                                                                Archangel in red shoes

                                                                                       Paul and Peter

On the way back to the apartment, we walked through the Ballaro market and saw beautiful oranges and 1.49 euro cauliflower.

Oranges

                                                                                Cauliflower- 1.49 euro

We are really enjoying our time in Palermo- art, food and architecture are varied and interesting.
Vicky made us a wonderful pasta with tomato sauce for dinner, with some Sicilian wine from Corleone.