Sunday, 28 February 2016

Travelling to Modica

Sunday February 28 was a travel day.  We got up early and left Residence San Martino at around
8:30  a.m.   We said goodbye to two cats that had been hanging around outside our window.  They were seeking warmth and shelter.
Cats outside our window facing the courtyard
After a caffe at Postale 17, we headed down the Erice hill.

Last caffe in Erice
Near the parking area 
Cows as we left Erice
View of the sea from Erice
View of Tapani and the sea from Erice

We decided to take La Via del Sale (the Salt Route) between Trapani and Marsala.  The salt from the saltpans is considered the best in Italy and has been big business since the 12th century. However, salt production has fallen massively and only a cottage industry remains.  At this time of year, the salt is covered with tiles to protect it from the rain.  There are also many small decommissioned windmills.  
Saltpans covered with tiles
Decommissioned windmill

There is a small salt museum in a 300 year old salt worker's house.  It will not be open until early March.  There was one 16th century windmill nearby that is working today.
Museo del Sale and working windmill
We passed an old pillbox from the war, with an anti-war message.
No more war
Fake gun

From the saltpans, we were able to have one last look back at Erice, at the top of the mountain.  A very special place.
View back at Erice
We continued on the slower road---some of the topography was very interesting- lots of green and stone.  Near Marsala, a bit scruffy.
Lots of green

Interesting outcrop

We continued our drive to Agrigento (population 60,000), where we stopped for lunch at a recommended restaurant near the Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples).  We decided to order the special lunch menu for the Almond Blossom Festival that had started in early February and runs until mid-March.
Alonzo getting ready for lunch
The menu


Antipasto of mussels, orange, onions, shrimp and almonds- delicious
Pasta with olives, tomatoes with a basil pesto

                                                  Dorade with fig balsamic vinegar and pistachios and caponata


Semifredo


Due to time constraints and my gimpy ankle we didn't explore the Valley of the Temples, but we did drive around and saw some of the architectural treasures.  The Valley is not really a valley, but rather a high plateau facing Africa over the Mediterranean Sea, with perhaps the most important inventory of Greek architecture outside of Greece.  The Temples were built in the 5C BC.  At one time the fourth-largest city in the known world, Agrigento, or Akragas as it was then known,  was founded by settlers from Gela and Rhodes in 581 BC.  

                       Temple of Concord- one of the best preserved as it was transformed into a church in the 6C AD


                                                                                      Closer look



Temple of Hera Lacinia (Juno)- built in 5C BC, but burned by Carthaginians in 406BC; partially re-erected in the early 1990s 



We continued our drive, passing Gela, the home of the petrochemical industry.  One of the very few places our guidebooks did not have good things to say or recommend.

Petrochemical refineries

We finally arrived at our meeting place in Modica where we will be spending the next five nights.  We are staying in a wonderful two level Airbnb with two bedrooms and two bathrooms and a small terrace on the second floor.  Modica has a population of around 55,000, and is one of southern Sicily's most atmospheric towns.  It is also a Unesco site.  It has a steeply stacked medieval centre and our apartment can only be reached by walking down narrow streets.  Modica is the home of Chiesa di San Giorgio, one of Sicily's most extraordinary baroque churches.

The owner clearly lives in the apartment for part of the year and there are wonderful photos and books in each room.

                                                                  Our bedroom with antique tile wall

Our hosts showing us the kitchen area

Our bathroom- with wonderful photos

                                                            Vicky and David's bathroom on the second floor

Vicky and David's bedroom

                                                                     The outside terrace- it was getting dark

View from our window- Church to the left

                                                                                Another view-- lovely spot

On Monday, we will start our exploration of Modica and surrounding towns.




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